Also, hunting season is coming to a close, but I haven't seen many hunters in the last week or so. I think they come in one big wave right after opening day. At any rate, there were so many pheasants at the ranch today that you'd be hard pressed to throw a rock and not hit one. They move pretty fast, though, so the only one I was lucky to shoot a snapshot of was crossing the road - and taking his sweet time to do it. I may have to wean myself from taking photos with the phone, despite its ease, because the quality is just too poor for blogging. But, I do what I can.
What used to be a blog about experiencing the places and cultures of the world has morphed into one of living in my adopted home of Wyoming.
Monday, October 29, 2012
Dogs and Pheasants and Cows, Oh, My!
Also, hunting season is coming to a close, but I haven't seen many hunters in the last week or so. I think they come in one big wave right after opening day. At any rate, there were so many pheasants at the ranch today that you'd be hard pressed to throw a rock and not hit one. They move pretty fast, though, so the only one I was lucky to shoot a snapshot of was crossing the road - and taking his sweet time to do it. I may have to wean myself from taking photos with the phone, despite its ease, because the quality is just too poor for blogging. But, I do what I can.
Sunday, October 28, 2012
Wintering in Wyoming status
So, the Fall days continue, and they are really beautiful. The light is low-slung, golden, seemingly pre-polarized - and it coats everything like honey. Many of the cottonwoods still have leaves clinging, though they have turned a darker, ochre-y shade of yellow. Hunting season continues for just a few more days, and that big buck that has been hanging out in the side lot next to the house is still alive and well. He doesn't even mind my dog sniffing around in his general vicinity.
It is also still a season of change. We have a new ranch hand coming later this week, but in the interim, no help down at "the place". This is not a terrible situation, since the late season activities are largely tapering off - but there are some calves in the corral that will need a few bales of hay in the morning and afternoon. There is also the case of the residence down at the place. It needs to be turned over for the new ranch hand - it's the benefit of a provided place to live on site, just up from the creek, out in the country. I'll head down there later today to do what I can. Based on the comfort level so far this morning, I may just need a short-sleeved t-shirt!
In the coming week I'll be making a few landmark moves - registering my new vehicle here in WY, obtaining a WY driver's licence and plates, incorporating my consulting effort, local banking, feeding calves, and trying to get up into the Cold Spring / Red Alkali Gulch scenic roads before they're too difficult or messy to complete.
Below are a few photos - I snapped these with my phone, so if you're a facebook friend, you've probably already seen them.
Thursday, October 25, 2012
Where did the last week go??
Jared, Ty, and James are heading out to gather the cattle. I wish I had a good frontal shot so that you could see the finery on the horses, the detail of their chaps, etc - but these guys were hard at work, and I didn't want to slow them down!
Friday, October 19, 2012
You Lookin' at Me?
This is an off-the-cuff, mobile phone snapshot of the entrance to Mr. G's ranch. The colors, the light - everything seemed to beckon on that approach!
Wednesday, October 17, 2012
Finicky Fall Day
- You'll find tissues in all of your pockets eventually. Besides being useful for your nose, you'll find yourself using them for your face, hands, and as ad-hoc napkins. Oh...my....god....I have turned into my mother!
- If there is rain in the forecast, bring along an extra layer or two. It would not be unusual for a 20+ degree temperature drop.
- Don't squat with your spurs on.
Tuesday, October 16, 2012
Service with a Smile
- Prepare your dogs for the dry weather or winter by feeding them fat drippings and adding vitamin E oil to their food. This helps their skin stay moisturized, preventing dandruff, and prevents cracking of their foot pads and nose skin.
- Clip mint plants down to the ground when it starts freezing at night. Save the clippings and place them in areas where you don't want mice to visit. They are a spreading plant perennial. Your cat wants some, too....
On Friday of last week, I stayed at the house to wait for the cable person to come for an installation. The provider up here is called TCT. The installation appointment was for 9:30 am. An actual, specific time. Mike, my installer, was running late, so he called shortly after 9 to tell me that. In all my prior cable experience, the installation time period is usually "between 8 and 5" or something similarly frustrating. Here, TCT covers a large area of Wyoming, and Hyattville isn't really on the way to anywhere else. So, I was impressed with the near-accurate timing of their dispatch system.
He did the install which when through the basement and exactly as I'd asked. Once connected, he gave me an impromptu User Training session on the remote. Sure, I could have figured that out on my own, but I thought it was a nice touch. During the process, I learned about a channel that I would not have otherwise bothered to view - it shows community news, events, obituaries (yikes!), lunch menus at schools and retirements homes, and very, very specific weather forecasts for each of the tiny hamlets scattered through the Big Horns.
Over the weekend, it turns out I noticed that when I was on the phone, the wireless internet signal would drop. After the phone call, it would reconnect automatically, so not a huge issue, but frustrating. It called to mind the old days of dial up when you couldn't be on the phone and the computer at the same time, unless you had two phone lines. So, I called up TCT, and let me tell you, these folks could show the likes of Comcast and others how to do business. Let me explain:
- My call was answered by a real, live, human. The next town over. I told him the issue I was having, and he asked for a few additional details. He said he didn't have an answer for me at the moment, but he'd get right back to me.
- About 15 minutes later, he actually did call me back and told me that the problem was with the splitter. He said that this would be handled as a trouble ticket, and their policy for trouble tickets is that they are handled as a priority, so someone would be able to come by on the same day. I was surprised - it certainly wasn't an urgent situation.
- A few minutes after that, I received another call - this time from Mike, my installer from the Friday before. He wanted to confirm the details of the issue, he apologized for the inconvenience, and then he told me he'd be at the house around 3.
- Sure enough, at 10 minutes to 3, he arrived - replaced the faulty splitter, had me confirm internet access while he was on the phone, and all was well with the web again.
Monday, October 15, 2012
Weekend Update
- Eat all of the food provided to you.
- If you drive a diesel, you should practice priming the fuel pump so that this is a fluent exercise when the time comes.
I'll see if I can mentally track back to Saturday for an update. I know, it's only 2 days ago, but somehow each day has provided so much activity that it's getting difficult to keep them separated in my mind. Saturday was going to be a wind-down working day on the ranch: Mr G wanted to finish up a few things before returning to his year-round home in Houston. There was still hay to be bailed and straw to be hauled - but first, we went to Eva's for a breakfast visit.
While we were there, Eva mentioned she might need help "trailing the cows" down from the mountain - essentially, an old-school trail ride to move the cows from pastures up on the mountain down into the corrals for winter. I jumped at the opportunity to ride horseback for 20 miles down-canyon trailing cows. After further discussion with Eva (based on the trail and my years of non-experience) we decided it would be best if I didn't join this ride. She did have some great suggestions to further a riding interest, though. Mr G has several horses down at the ranch, and one is an old mare that I've ridden before. After talking with Eva and Mr G, I have a multi-faceted opportunity: find a saddle that fits me (there are 4 to choose from here), learn how to bridle and properly saddle up the mare, and ride her around the property on a regular basis. There is also a local woman who is known for her horsemanship skills and can provide training.
Alright -back too Saturday morning - Mr G wanted to work on some items at the shop, so I opted for the homestyle breakfast whipped up by JoAnne at the Hyattville Cafe N Bar. (Incidentally, I've bought a few squares on the matrix in the bar to win a nicely tricked out rifle and scope - it's on display just above the bar, which is joined to the Cafe). For a price less than the pain of visiting a Denny's or IHOP, I was able to chat with some of the locals and Mr G's brother, Mr D. I also ordered a basic breakfast plate. What I received was 6 (!!) long rashers of thick bacon, a pile of hash browns, 4 pieces of toast, and two scrambled eggs and an endless mug of coffee. It was all delicious - but I was full by the time I got to the hash browns, so left most of those behind.
Now, here in Wyoming, folks don't like to waste things. I've known this, but it's different to keep in mind as a new resident, as opposed to being a neat little attribute of a vacation trip. So, wasting a serving of hash browns really should be avoided if at all possible. JoAnne told me this when I returned my plate to the counter - she's the only one working and it was bustling. She said that she'd downsize my future portions accordingly, but to let her know in the future if I won't be able to eat all the food I order. We struck a deal - I would do that, provided she let me know if I was getting in over my head with some sort of jumbo sized servings.
I eventually made my way to the ranch and helped out with some auto work for the morning. The afternoon plan was to head over to Manderson, about 15 miles away, and pick up some bales of straw.
Did you know: hay and straw are different things? Hay is essentially a type of seeding grass that has been cut and dried, and is used as a food source for livestock animals. Straw, on the other hand, is the stalk remains of grain plants - wheat, barley, oats, rye, etc. These grains are harvested from the plant for livestock and human consumption, among other things - leaving the stalk of the plant to dry, which becomes straw. As a secondary product of cereal grains, straw provides extra bang for the buck. It has tons of uses - but in our case, it provides two benefits for ranchers: food and bedding. As a percentage of the feed for livestock, straw provides roughage and generates heat from the digestion process, maintaining body temperature during winter. It is also used as bedding for the livestock.
In our case, the bales of straw we were going to pick up were those giant round ones you see in the fields. The process was fairly straightforward - we went to Allen's farm, weighed the Diesel truck and flatbed gooseneck trailer first, then went to the straw stacks for loading. Allen rode with us to the stack, and then operated the tractor to lift a total of 8 giant straw bales onto the flatbed trailer. We returned to the weigh station at the farm, measured the difference (over 4 tons!!), and then headed back to the ranch here in Hyattville to unload the bales.
Friday, October 12, 2012
Roller Coaster Friday!!
- Don't put your work gloves away until you are on your way home.
- Don't leave your vehicle windows down, even on a gorgeous day, to prevent bees and flies from setting up house there.
Today, the Cable Guy came out and installed cable tv this morning. Everything went smoothly, other than taking too long. Afterward, I joined Mr G down at the ranch to help out towing a truck to Basin for repairs. That was an adventure in itself. He drove a Jeep Cherokee, and I was in the 83 Ford super big pickup. Once we got the emergency brake released and took it out of gear, and turned on the accessories, it was clear the truck had a flat-ish tire and no power steering. So, for about 30 miles, I was steering this big truck with every fiber in my body. After the first panicky moments passed (during which my mind did a disturbing escalation of the risks involved, including rolling both vehicles over down a hill), I calmed down and enjoyed the ride much like a roller coaster.
That is, until the Jeep towing me began to overheat. Of all the days helping out on the ranch, today is the day I decided to bring my black and white cute little insulated bag that looks like a purse. I had it loaded up with ice and cans of soda. Turns out, we needed the ice to begin the cool down process of the radiator 5 miles outside of Basin. That wasn't going to be enough, so Mr G then used the insulated bag to scoop up more water from a nearby drainage canal and began adding that to the radiator. After a few trips down to the canal, we got the engine cooled off enough to get the Ford truck to the auto shop and drop it off, adding proper radiator fluid in the process.
Then, we headed further down the road in the newly refreshed Jeep to Greybull. There, we needed to have a tire repaired for a stacker tractor - one that stacks the hay that has been already baled into the 70+ pound rectangles. I call that machine the "hay bale picker upper". No one has corrected me yet, and it gets the point across. While in Greybull, we had to stop at the A&W shop for an ice cold Root Beer float.
Making our way back to Hyattville, we stopped off at the bridge that we've been working on . The work at this stage involves drilling guide holes into planks that are about 16 feet wide, 10 inches deep, and about 2.5 inches thick. Once the guide holes are complete, Mr G follows with a variety of bolt sizes and washers, and then drives them in using the impact wrench. The weather for this today was perfect - mid 70s, sunny, peaceful - until the mosquitoes discovered us! We completed one of the longer sections of the bridge today - that felt like a good accomplishment. We headed back to the central part of the ranch, and were going to do just one more thing. This turned into about 10 more things. I'm not complaining, but I had taken my gloves off and put them away - and we were not in a position to have enough time for me to retrieve them. You don't want to know what my hands encountered.
We moved some trucks and trailers, I helped guide the pointy end of a forklift tine into four very small fabric holders to lift a ton bag of oats, and we fed the remaining cows and one of the horses. We did a little late day clean-up around the ranch, and wouldn't you know it - the sky turned this most incredible sunset swirly range of colors. Then, each field we passed on the way to the house was filled with deer.
Poor things don't know hunting season starts Monday - but they will soon!
Here is a parting snapshot from when we were leaving the ranch this evening....enjoy!
Wyoming Week 1 Roundup
Distance: 1706 miles.
Mileage: averaged 18 mph, pulling a loaded 4 x 8 U-Haul.
Consumption: 97 gallons of gas, or just over 6 tanks full, or about $360.
Duration: Drive time spanned 5 days, largely due to daily fatigue. We would stop every 2 hours on the drive up for doggie potty breaks (and sometimes human ones, too!). The cat did fine – he even used the litter box in the vehicle while we were on the road.
Monday: I arrived about 2 in the afternoon and promptly power-napped. Once that was done, I unloaded the U-haul, put everything away, fed and comforted the cat and dog, and returned the U-haul…to Worland, about 30 miles away.
Tuesday: I did a little helping out at the ranch. To clarify, I should say that the ranch itself is about 6 miles from the house itself. The house is in town – Hyattville – population 75. Well, now, that’s 76! I learned that Verizon lied to me - I have zero cell coverage here, so while I love my smart phone and can hop onto the wireless network and use it for everything I use my computer for, I can’t use it for calls. This is a little frustrating. I’ll need to work on a solution for that.
Wednesday: we prepped cattle for auction. That meant separating the DL brand calves from the ZA brand calves, and doing a little math to determine how many trips it would take to move 63 head using 3 trailers containing 17 head each. We ended up having Jared, the ranch hand who lives on site there, making the second run. In the afternoon, I came back to ‘town’ to take the dog on a little exploring trip and started on tilling the garden to prep it for winter/spring.
Thursday: a real workout day. I helped out on the ranch with Jared on one of the bridges over the creek replacing planks. Later back at the house, I finished the battle of the weeds and fixed wooden steps that lead up to the house.
Today, Friday, I have the luxury of time to write this as the cable guy is doing his thing to bring cable into the house for TV. I learned that Hyattville is a pilot community for fiber optic lines – they’ve had them in place for a few years now.
Saturday - probably more work at the ranch. Basically, there is some late season hay to be harvested - so we have to wait until the afternoon when the morning dew dries, otherwise the cattle and horses won't be able to eat it. This was a drought year, so the hay crops are very depleted - and hay costs twice as much as normal if you have to buy it. Mr G has to buy some - a couple of TONS – because of the drought. There is much to do while Mr G, with all his expertise is here in town.
Another farming note: there are several apple trees here at the house and at the ranch, but there are no apples this season! Apparently there was a cold snap in late spring that froze and killed the apple blossoms when they were still flowers. The impact of this is that the elk and deer also feed on fallen apples - so there are lots of hoof prints in the yard from them trying to find apples. I don't think they're too bad off - I haven't seen a skinny one yet. Hunting season starts Monday so there are lots of hunters arriving here now, setting up their camps. I have been told I should wear a hunters' orange jersey to wear when I'm out walking Djinni for the rest of October.
Dog info: Late afternoons I've made a point to walk with Djinni, my dog, throughout the whole town without a leash - she has done great off leash. She is also in paradise, and runs and jumps and plays and barks and play-howls and on and on. Djinni has discovered coyote poop, elk poop, deer poop, cow, horse, and beaver poop and I don't know how many other new types of poop. This is why I keep the leash on her when we walk (even if I don't hold onto it) so I can grab it and stop her from rolling in something that smells "interesting". There is a meat processing place here in town, and they get busy this time of year with all the hunting. I plan to pick up some morsels from them for Djinni.
Weather: it has been beautiful – chilly evenings and mornings lend way to stunning afternoons bathed in that seemingly polarized fall afternoon light. I start the day with about 6 layers on (plus jeans and cowboy boots). By noon, I'm down to 3 layers, and by 2, I'm in a t-shirt. Such is a warm-ish October in Wyoming!
Not a bad first week – not bad at all! I’ll post a collection of photos this evening – pulled from the Canon, so they should make for better viewing than those taken with the smart phone that doesn’t do any phone activities.
Thursday, October 11, 2012
Autumn Light
Wednesday, October 10, 2012
Ranch Hand....
Painted Hills
Sunday, October 07, 2012
Breakfast of Champions
A couple of aspirin, some fruit, and some fiber - coupled by coffee in a cup bigger than your head - is how I started off today from Denver. I got to Casper, WY, and considered pushing thru the remaining 250+ miles, but the size and quantity of roadkill dissuaded me. I'll post a summary of the road trip adventures in the next day or two, once I get my workstation up and running.
Friday, October 05, 2012
Lots of catch up to do...
But I don't write well on my phone. In short, I'm having so much fun it seems illegal! Better posts soon. Oh, and I'm half way there. Drove the longest route possible out of Texas - from Houston NW up thru the top if the panhandle - 860+ miles!
Tuesday, October 02, 2012
Preparation, Packing, and......Procrastination
One of my stops today included REI, the outdoor outfitters. Most everything I have is already in storage that I can't access - it's an "all or none" thing. So, over the last few days I've picked up a few things I'll need in Wyoming - since first snowfall is expected tomorrow night! The problem is I have a very hard time buying winter gear in 85 degree Houston weather. But, getting it there will prove to be a little more difficult - just because the availability where I'm going will be limited to what's on offer at Ace Hardware!!.
Instead, I've opted for the "getting started" kit - weatherproof activity pants, insulated snow boots, and wool socks. I have a jacket and a few fleece items, so I'll be good. For a while.
Here is my dog Djinni (pronounced Genie) inspecting my latest gear:
Now, I'm worn out from running around. If you'll excuse me, I'm going to eat some ice cream, take a nap, and really pack this evening!!!
And I'm not even going to worry that the only cafe in the town I'm heading to is closing at the end of October......o_o.....
Monday, October 01, 2012
A Change in the Air
I haven't posted since I moved from Ohio to Texas, for a number of reasons. Now, I am preparing to leave Houston for the nth time, but for a whole new adventure - and in a whole new direction. I am moving to Wyoming as part of an experiment - call it my Winter 2012 challenge. I want to winter in Wyoming prior to finalizing my decision to move there permanently. I need to ensure I can handle those winters! This has been an objective formulated over a number of years. Wyoming is the one place - out of all of the places in the world that I've visited - where I feel continually compelled to return. There is something in, or of, or about Wyoming that resonates in my soul.
My initial plan was to buy a home here, leave my job, begin consulting (and the requisite travel that entails), and live happily ever after. But - what if I hate Wyoming in winter? Fortunately, I have a number of friends there, and one of them has offered to rent his furnished home to me during this season to help me further determine if this is really what I want to do. I am working on the other stuff - the consulting arena - but posts in the meantime will be kept free of work related details. (I have other blogs and social networks for that, if you're interested.) I've downloaded an app to my phone that should allow me to post photos and short blog posts from the road, and I plan to re-engage in my passion for photography as well.
So, I hope you will enjoy my journey with me - haps and mishaps and everything in between! I start driving on Wednesday, October 3. That is the same day that the fire warning expires in tiny Hyattville, Wyoming. It is also the last day of the growing season there, and the forecast is calling for the first snowfall as well. I'll take those all as good omens!